Raised on crab farms in the Yangtze River estuary, the gray-shelled freshwater crab waves its big hairy claws in family kitchens, respectable restaurants and luxury hotels in September and October.

每到九十月份，这些来自长江河口的灰壳淡水蟹就挥舞着那巨大的毛钳子，被送进家庭厨房、高档饭店和奢华酒店。